DAY TEN: 18 October 2012 from Viana to Logrono
I wasnt very hopeful of a day of walking after my mishap the day before however there are worse places to be laid up than Viana; a small town with a mere 3,500 inhabitants. Its architectural heritage and historical centre are tastefully intact. The smudge of infamy its link to Cesare Borgia whose tomb is in the town. Casare was the illegitimate son of a Pope which explains his appointment as commander of the Papal Armies and he patronised both Leonardo De Vinci and Machiavelli. I cant imagine that he thought he was going to end up in Viana either. At least I left alive.
I said my goodbyes to Rafa & his son David who were terminating their camino to head back to Madrid. An incongruous pair of pilgrims; Rafa is a Frank Sinatra tribute singer and David an emigrant to Edinburgh; a Spanaird with a wee Scottish accent. I couldnt decide if it was sexy or just plain weird. After a leisurely breakfast at the grandly named hotel Palacio De Pujadas I discovered I was bored and my aching ankle not so aching. I decided to chance the leisurely 10km to Logrono, capital of Rioja, carefully and tenatively watching my footsteps as I went. Logrono is a sweet University City, tidy and comfortable in its skin. I escaped from the rather rowdy, raucous hostel to mingle into the bustle of locals settling into an evening of eating, drinking & merriment in the back streets of the old town centre. As I headed home to bed and left the murmur of Spanish jovility behind me I passed a huddle of enterprise around the trunk of an old jalopy wheeling and dealing over seething boxes of deep rich earth scented fungi. Not your usually city scene.